[ Bad English Warning : This post can include some bad uses of English because of the author's English ability which is a little bit improved but still not able to be said it's good. ]

I'm designing a puzzle and there's a worry about what if the result isn't that quite same with the design.

Some months ago when this (which was a KO against my will ) was arrived I was surprised because the result was a little thicker that the design.

I see that was because of the way of printing process, and my new thing has quite many minimal mechanisms to work, so I decided when my new work is printed I'd rather use the polished material. But.... That gave me another worry of designing the model adjusted to the actual polished result.

Umm... so the questions are summarized into:

1. Then how much does the polishing system carves the model usually? Into the exact same size with the original design? or still a little bit thicker, or even thinner?

2. IF (just if) I don't want to use the polishing but want to make it work as well as the original design, How much should i offset the faces that seems to be going to jam each other?

Ah.. including tiny parts on the puzzle makes me a little annoyed.

Their polishing only affects the outside of the parts. They use diagonal cut ceramic media.

For example:

This media has trouble reaching the inner grooves of a puzzle so it doesn't have a significant affect on turning.

Also, the media is big. If you have small parts that are a similar size to the media they will either 1) refuse to polish it or 2) lose some of your parts.

It's hard to describe the affect their polishing has other than to say it removes the outer shell of partially sintered nylon to expose the solid core of every part.

It's sad that it wouldn't work well to my puzzle.

Then could you answer me the second question?

I decided not to use polishing. But there will still be a question when I use original WSF. The printing process does print the model a little thicker with half-sintered particles and this is certain, but i can't find the information which says me how thick it gets through the process. I'm wondering it because my new(but is unclear to be printed) puzzle has small internal parts that needs to work without jamming. It can be easily solved with some of sanding, but it becomes inignorable problem when it's uploaded at the shop. So i need to apply the thickness to my design so that it doesn't cause any problem. Is there anybody can answer me?

It sounds like what you're trying to do is impossible and contradicts the notion of mechanical tolerances.

If the printer were infinitely accurate you would not need any tolerances at all. Because the printer is inaccurate you need to account for that and add the tolerances. The printer is not consistently inaccurate though. Sometimes pieces will be a bit bigger, sometimes smaller, sometimes both at the same time. You can't anticipate and correct for this error in your design. Instead you can only anticipate and account for it.

As I've said before, there is a tiny "shell" around your pieces of partially sintered material. At first this shell will cause a lot of friction and very poor turning / locking up. It is the break-in process that removes or wears down this shell.

If you do end up making an adjustment, it should be on the order of .1mm or so since that's still within the printer's error margin.

Mmm. well it seems like that I just misunderstood your opinion at first. I think there were overly much worries about that because I felt a lot of frustration before with Compy Block. As you said now I feel like keeping my design original.

Sorry for bothering, Thanks a lot.