This is a design based on Noah's idea of a bandaged 3x3x3 built up into a 2x2x2. As it is not my original idea, I am offering the files for free.

I designed this puzzle to use #4-40 3/4" pan head machine screws, and 0.18" OD x 0.018" wire x 0.375" long springs, and I included a file for a 3x3x3 core. I think that the DIY kit hardware will work, but I am not sure. The core is identical to the DIY kit cores, so one of those will work as well.

The puzzle is 57mm across, so the Harry Potter 2x2x2 stickers from cubesmith will fit nicely.

The really interesting thing is that the puzzle will turn freely on each of the 3 planes individually when it is in the solved state. The bandaging does not block any moves until after the first turn.


Enjoy!
Adam

p.s. For those that are wondering: Yes, this puzzle could be built in a couple of hours with a 3x3x3 and some sheet plastic. Feel free to build one if you don't want to print and cast one.

Nightmare indeed ...
I have some people that I want to play with this.

So ... EVIL!!!

Fantastic! I can't believe it was made (in theory). Sometime when I have the cash (hopefully next summer) I'll try printing this thing.



Good luck to who ever is solving it. It will be a real pain, as you can't see the center orientation, therefore can't really see what moves are blocked. It will take a lot of mental visualization and a thorough understanding of the Bandaged Cube to solve this.



What a great way to start off this new forum. Thank you for doing the honor of designing this puzzle for the community Adam.


Regards,
~Noah

NiCe. I should make this and let someone try and solve it, and give an evil laugh when they cant do it!! HAHAhaha.

You could even take a Harry Potter 2x2x2 and make one of these.

I've fooled around with the idea of making a fully functional 2x2x2 this way since the techniques employed to make a "franken tower" are essentially the same. The thought never crossed my mind to have internal blocking, however. That is truly messed up.

Fiendish. I'd love to make that at some point.

Thanks for the files Adam, and for the idea, Noah!

Cool. Seems really intresting. I can't really see how it works, but I would love to print it. This may be my first 3d printed puzzle.

EDIT: Okay I now know how it works. Masically an overlaping bi-cube that looks like a 2x2. I uploaded all the files to fdmonly.com. how much will it probably cost to get this all printed?

At first I thought this was the much simpler mod of extending the 3x3 corners to cover the edges and effectively make it into a 2x2. After reading the first couple replies, I knew I must be wrong. Just the idea itself of doing essentially the same thing but with a bandaged cube is pure genius. Great work Noah and Puzzlemaster42!

$150 plus shipping which is usually $10.

I offer FDM ABS PLUS parts with .01 inch build layers.

Parts will be white unless otherwise specified and be printed using the "solid print type". (EDIT: THIS PRICE IS FOR SPARSE PRINT TYPE)

You will get:
Qty:
1 Nightmare Cube - Core
1 Nightmare Cube - C
7 Nightmare Cube - CE
4 Nightmare Cube - AE
1 Nightmare Cube - AEA

Please contact me at printo3d@printo3d (dot) com if you wish to order.

Thanks,

Bradley
printo3d.com

Adam, I have a question for you.

Just out of curiosity, why would you need 6 springs? Since two of the centers are bandaged together, would you need to have springs on those two centers?

Hi Bradley,
How much for one of each of those pieces in sparse mode? (this could be part of order #3)

-f

Just for even tension. You could use 4, but the springs will allow a little bit of flex even with the centers bandaged together.

Alright thank you. Makes sense.

Sorry, my mistake this price is for the sparse print type.

What are the differences between sparse and solid print styles?

If I were to print with the sparse type, would I be able to use the actual printed pieces or would I have to make molds with them?

http://www.printo3d.com/solidvssparse.html

The sparse fill mode produces a part that is strong and light. I have used it for entire puzzles (SuperX 2.0 and Helicopter Cube), and have had no problems with strength.

Thanks very much Adam. I'm really looking forward to making this puzzle.

I'm thinking it should have some sort of distinguishing thing on the stickers to signify that there is more to the puzzle than what you see. Similar to the center logo on Skeneegee's Evil Twins.

One important thing to keep in mind- if you get something made in sparse mode, you cannot do any modifications to it. That is, you can do some VERY slight fillets, but you can't cut hard corners, or reshape anything unless you plan to fill. The shell is very thin, then you have a sort of honeycomb inside.

As mentioned before http://www.printo3d.com/solidvssparse.html

Also I have a crappy video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=su-Pw0R5YTA

The shell around the exterior of the model is approx. .060"

Basically all the sparse mode does in make an exterior shell and ties everything together internally with the criss/cross ABS filament.

ADDED PICTURE (I have permission to post this)

Would it still be safe to sand down the little ridges to have a smooth surface on the outside pieces? (So the stickers look ok)

Yea, those walls are thicker than I though, looking at that pic.

I sanded down some masters I had printed in sparse mode. As recommended by puzzlemaster Adam, I bought some IPS Weld-on, and brushed some of that on after smoothing the rough part of the puzzle down. That stuff is fantastic.

The one place you really have to be careful when you do sanding on masters is the inside. If you sand them down too far, your pieces end up being loose. I only sand the feet lightly- enough to make them smooth. They don't have to be perfectly smooth like the surface.

Finally got to uploading a picture.

How many people would be interested in a package deal of the screws and springs + 3d printed pieces?

I will be eventually. Closer to the holidays.

I'm not sure if this is bumping since it is 2 weeks old, but I have a question: Can you still make molds out of sparse parts, and are they still durable?

Yes, you can make molds from Sparse pieces... The parts are reasonably durable...
The only thing you really don't want to do is file them down much (light sanding if anything)