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 Post subject: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:25 pm 
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EDIT: this is before the addition of the puzzle building section of the forum. thanks for listening!

this is the "how to build" FAQ, and i sincerely hope this gets stickied and named properly

RULE 1 google is your friend.
RULE 2 TP articles section is your DADDY
RULE 3 use your head
RULE 4 experiment, you're a human. we're here because of our ingenuity. don't be afraid to mess up.

STICKERS:

1. purchase vinyl sheets for stickers here. this is oracal 651 (what i use). there is cheaper stuff (551) and im sure there are other brands too, use your head.
2. i personally use a razorbalde and a straight edge, but some people use a plotter to cut their pieces.

PLASTIC SHEET / CARD

1. you can purchase plastic here. once again, use your head. there are more places you can buy this stuff. ABS, polyurethane, acrylic, PVC, whatever. i personally use ABS.
2.i score and snap to cut the pieces, this helps make straighter edges and prevents uncalculated blade width errors.

FILLER

1. you can purchase filler from home depot, lowes, any good hardware store, google.

2. clay-like fillers, milliput, magic sculp, etc i never had luck with. milliput is brittle, doesn't adhere, and it's a bear to sand down. i messed up my shoulder sanding that stuff so much. you can get sculpting clay at a hobby lobby or michaels art supply, online is probably your best bet, though. i've never seen milliput in stores.

3. syringe style epoxys are all very different. some are specifically for plastics, others not. some don't adhere well, others melt plastic together. thicker ones tend to retain air if you're not careful mixing (don't stir... fold) some thinner ones are difficult to manage. EXPERIMENT.

4. body filler (bondo, green stuff) is tough to work with, but some people like it. usually fiberglass resin is the way to go with filling cubies then truncating.

TRUNCATING

truncating just means to remove part of the original piece to make a new (preferably aesthetically pleasing) shape. EXAMPLE HERE

this can be done many ways. i personally use a reciprocating dremel table saw to cut. i don't fill, i cover the hole with plastic sheet.

BANDAGING

this is bandaging. the goal is to get a single shape from multiple shapes. this cuts down on manufacturing time, and precision mistakes.

this can be done simply by gluing the pieces together, filling the cracks with your favorite filler, and smoothing out the final product.

PAINT

use a paint designed for modeling.
don't buy cheap generic paint, it will chip.
buy a flat black, not glossy paint if you want a machine finish.
spray in thin coats, many times. let the coats dry thoroughly.
generally it's a good rule to not spray rubbing parts. it makes the puzzle feel sticky when it turns.

TOOLS

these are all my tools. you can get them all at them at hardware stores (i can't believe im saying this, but i've seen this asked before). above all you need a cutting device that will give you consistent and straight results. this is mine. fortunately for me, my father supplied me with this saw. it may seem expensive, but there are other options. there are hand held dremels, hand saws, small grinders, etc.

i also have a soldering iron which comes in handy when super glue isn't enough. i melt little strips of plastic onto the pieces for added support.

as for how to build specific designs... im working on that. pretty much every puzzle i've done i made a tutorial on. some builders don't do tutorials. i think Jin H. Kim is the only other person making real tutorials. a lot of the TP articles are just crappy pictures of the mechanism with no explanation. some builders don't show the internals of their puzzles. use the search function, and more importantly, use your head. most of the puzzles out there are easy to figure out with a little modding experience.

i will compile a list of links here to as many mods as i can find. to be continued...

fisher cube mech (picture from Thomas).
Mastermorphix
skewb tetrahedron. explains the mechanism. but use plastic sheet, not pieces of other puzzles.
draken (thx Aleh / skeneeg / everyone!)
2x2x3. (from Hidetoshi)
domino / 2x3x3. same technique for 2x2x3 (from Hidetoshi)
bandaged 4x4 domino. also same can be done for 2x2x3.
3x3x4 (from Jin H. Kim)
bandaged 4x4 into 3x3x4 (thanks kirby)
3x3x5 (from Jin H. Kim)
4x4x5
mental block


Last edited by p|astic on Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:19 pm, edited 15 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:00 pm 
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Yes this should defiantly be a sticky!! You should include the best plastic thickness. Here are some mod links, just posted as text so you can add them to the original post.
http://chrono.org/puzzles/3x3x4.html
http://chrono.org/puzzles/3x3x5.html
http://chrono.org/puzzles/4x4x5.html
viewtopic.php?t=7569
viewtopic.php?t=7662
http://chrono.org/puzzles/study-pucks.html
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~wq6h-tkj/bb ... dage_e.htm
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~wq6h-tkj/bb ... agon_e.htm
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~wq6h-tkj/bb ... mese_e.htm
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~wq6h-tkj/bb ... deca_e.htm
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~wq6h-tkj/bb ... mino_e.htm
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~wq6h-tkj/bb ... ower_e.htm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:06 pm 
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Very nice

http://www.speedcubing.com/ton/Building.htm

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2x2x2 . . . PB: 1.65 Avg: 5.32
3x3x3 . . . PB: 11.32 Avg: 17.33
4x4x4 . . . PB: 1:11.32 Avg: 1:27
5x5x5 . . . PB: 2:26.47 Avg: 2:36.04
Pyraminx . PB: 4.18 Avg: 8.43


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:30 pm 
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Where can I buy any and almost every color of plastic sheet that I want? Thanks

Adam

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hi-games.net | Cubemania | youtube/mrCubist

Void Cube
| avg of 12: 32.10
| PB : 22.92 np PLL skip
| PB2 : 26.75 np no skips


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:32 pm 
fusion wrote:
Where can I buy any and almost every color of plastic sheet that I want? Thanks

Adam


the internet


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 10:12 am 
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Almost all words are solely lower case or solely upper case... Reading text like that is not nice. Try using shift key instead of caps lock.

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for($"=@_=split??,"Jrsk an treP rehlohacteu,";$";$\="\r"){$\.=$.=chr
32+95*rand,$_-$"or$.ne$_[--$"%2?-$"-1:$"]&&$"++for++$|..$";print}<>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:38 pm 
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emr1028 wrote:
fusion wrote:
Where can I buy any and almost every color of plastic sheet that I want? Thanks

Adam


the internet


I was looking for a specific name or place and that was not much help at all. Anybody else who would like to help me please do. Thanks

Adam

_________________
Started cubing Sep. 2006
hi-games.net | Cubemania | youtube/mrCubist

Void Cube
| avg of 12: 32.10
| PB : 22.92 np PLL skip
| PB2 : 26.75 np no skips


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:41 pm 
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http://www.google.com

ABS Sheet

Search

no?

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List of Speedcubing methods
Speedcubing tutorial

@.=split(//,"J huhesartc kPaeenrro,lt");do{print$.[$_];$_=($_+3)%25;}while($_!=0);


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 5:01 pm 
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fusion wrote:
Where can I buy any and almost every color of plastic sheet that I want? Thanks

Adam

It would be a lot cheaper to buy any color of paint you wanted, then you could use it on not modified pieces to, also colored ABS is hard to find through google, or in online stores.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 8:52 pm 
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fusion wrote:
emr1028 wrote:
fusion wrote:
Where can I buy any and almost every color of plastic sheet that I want? Thanks

Adam


the internet


I was looking for a specific name or place and that was not much help at all. Anybody else who would like to help me please do. Thanks

Adam


Colored ABS sheet is really hard to find. Styrene is more common, but still very hard to find in quantities suitable for puzzles. Acrylic is very common in a wide array of colors, but is less suitable for twisty puzzles.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 10:22 am 
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To get back to p|astic's wish for making this sticky:
I think, that a sticky topic should be some kind like the "Who is Who"-topic. Everbody posts there very disciplinded. Everybody sticks :wink: to the topic of this thread. In this one one we got into ordinary question-answer-question-routines, which don't belong in a sticky topic. I think an article would fit better your purpose.

And by the way: Well done, collecting and cleaning up all these links.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:32 pm 
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Don't hold your breath over this, I tried to do one for Speedcubing methods, but it is covered in dust now :(

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List of Speedcubing methods
Speedcubing tutorial

@.=split(//,"J huhesartc kPaeenrro,lt");do{print$.[$_];$_=($_+3)%25;}while($_!=0);


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:54 pm 
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Pembo wrote:
Don't hold your breath over this, I tried to do one for Speedcubing methods, but it is covered in dust now :(

It wasn't a FAQ.

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for($"=@_=split??,"Jrsk an treP rehlohacteu,";$";$\="\r"){$\.=$.=chr
32+95*rand,$_-$"or$.ne$_[--$"%2?-$"-1:$"]&&$"++for++$|..$";print}<>


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 Post subject: Re: PLEASE STICKY THIS. BUILDING FAQ. HOW TO BUILD.
PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 10:03 pm 
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p|astic wrote:
draken (thanks skeneegee)


Please Thank Aleh and Jurgen Brandt for Draken. I only built a couple of them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:14 pm 
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Um yeah Sandy when you see this can you please sticky it or appoint some new moderators. like some 6x6x6 rank people that are always on...like Pembo lol he seems to be in pretty good control.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:45 pm 
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amen. i think we need more active moderators, or more mods.

i hate to imply that this is a democracy, but i swear my intentions are good.


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 Post subject: Re: PLEASE STICKY THIS. BUILDING FAQ. HOW TO BUILD.
PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 8:31 pm 
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I give you MANY thanks Taylor, this gives me a much better look at the fisher cube and [when I am confident] to make a mental block.


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 Post subject: Re: PLEASE STICKY THIS. BUILDING FAQ. HOW TO BUILD.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:13 pm 
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My only question is what cutting tools specifically (as in product names) would be best for straight, smooth cuts. I have a hand saw, but it's obviously not very good for straight cuts, and it leaves the cut parts slightly rough.

(EDIT: Just found the machine in the p|astic's pic. The magic of looking at image file names.)

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 Post subject: Re: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:23 pm 
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honestly, the dremel scroll saw is pretty mediocre. the blade moves if you apply pressure, so cuts (if unguided) are crooked or wobbly. there's no measuring device for angle, on mine. also, it cuts plastic sheet well, but if the plastic is thicker than 1/4 inch, it just melts.

i haven't tried a band saw. i'd imagine they'd cut cut thicker plastic, but beyond that would be similar. i suppose a miter saw would work if you could stand accounting for width of the blade, and having less precision.

i would like to know what the pro builders use.


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 Post subject: Re: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:36 pm 
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I don't rely on saws for straight cuts. Ever.

Saws are strictly for rough cuts. Sand flat to finish. Polish or paint as needed.

You MIGHT be able to get away with a proper table saw setup, but unless you have access to machine tools you're better off rough cutting and then flat sanding.

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 Post subject: Re: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:55 pm 
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p|astic, scroll saws might be needed a proper setup. The blade tension is part of it. Also, there is a tradeoff between the cut aggressiveness and how fine the cut is. Did you try different blades? Cutting thicker plastic can be a challenge, I never tried that actually. Wouldn't the speed control help with that? Also you should never force the cut, the sheet should glide real easy through the blade. That also makes it so the blade does not bend. But when doing something like that I always used a jig of some kind, like a rule to guide the blade.

Jin, from you experience, would a jig help with sawing off a part of the cube? For instance, one that would open the corner part of the cube for making a half-truncated cube and cover the rest and guide the saw?

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 Post subject: Re: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:45 pm 
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A jig would help somewhat. But part of the problem is that plastic has a low temperature threshold. Use teeth that are too fine and you will melt plastic. Use rough teeth and it's just a rough cut anyway.

Band saws are no good for straight cutting plastic. It only gets worse the thicker the stock (and more risk you run of melting/binding the band saw, leading to a potentially catastrophic incident). Jigsaws and scroll saws aren't much good for similar reasons. The only viable alternative for a very straight cut is a circular table saw. Even then the edge is seldom clean enough to be considered "finished."

I really think that the only way you'll be able to get away with not sanding cut surfaces smooth is to use machinery at a machine shop (Okamoto).

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 Post subject: Re: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 3:02 am 
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Perhaps the best bits could be pasted into an article.

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 Post subject: Re: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 11:53 am 
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Jin H Kim wrote:
I really think that the only way you'll be able to get away with not sanding cut surfaces smooth is to use machinery at a machine shop (Okamoto).


i have a hard time sanding perfectly flat (usually rounded edges). it's hit or miss with just sand paper on a flat surface and pushing the piece into it. any secrets of the trade?

belt sander / small grinder, perhaps?


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 Post subject: Re: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 3:01 pm 
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p|astic wrote:
i have a hard time sanding perfectly flat (usually rounded edges). it's hit or miss with just sand paper on a flat surface and pushing the piece into it. any secrets of the trade?


A series of files will always produce a better edge and finish than sandpaper (except for cosmetic final fine sanding, of course). Use large ones, and make sure they are sharp.

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 Post subject: Re: Please Sticky This. Building FAQ. How To Build.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 4:01 pm 
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The more you sand, the more you tend to round the surface, true. Which is why you have to compensate by rough cutting the surface to as close as you can get it without cutting too much. I realize that's not on the way of advice, but there's no way to know for sure what you can do without experience.

I lay down a flat sheet of sandpaper and sand very steadily, making sure that I guide the piece so that it doesn't "roll" as I sand it. Since the leading edge of the piece tends to bind up in the direction that the piece is moving, I shift my grip in such a way that I'm pushing the piece from behind and not pulling through the paper. This minimizes the roll you are experiencing.

It's also why I'm frequently stopping to check the progress of the piece as I sand. I will glance at a piece half a dozen Times or more as I approach the desired shape, often looking at it after even one stroke through the sandpaper.

I do use a disk sander, but its use is largely dictated by how practical the piece in question is. If it's too small or too odd shaped it it makes no sense.

However all final finishing is done by hand because using a disk sander for finishing ABS plastic pieces (especially odd shaped ones) is sheer folly. Those few who own one of my mental midgets will still be able to see some of the tell-tale arcs of the disk sander on some of the unstickered edge pieces.

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