For Andreas: weight= 80g, height= 55mm, width =50mm.
There have been a few people asking for a simple mod to begin modding with recently. I have been thinking of making this mod for some time and it would be a good first mod also. The base puzzle is nice and cheap too, it's a Mozhi Pyramorphix, so it’s inexpensive if you make a catastrophic mistake.
[click on any pictures to enlarge]222 Rhombic Prism:
222 rhombic Prism.jpg [ 73.62 KiB | Viewed 1113 times ]
There are 2 puzzles that are possible with this method. The first one is this `222 Rhombic Prism` pictured here. I completed it enough to have a few twists, and then I moved on to the `222 Hex Barrel` as my finished result. I know Rline has completed a 222 Rhombic Prism, and I’m sure he will present it when he receives his stickers. The idea of this thread is to help people who would like to make a simple first mod. Both Puzzles are made from a Pyramorphix.Step 1 Stickers:
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The idea here is that you may like to save on some stickering, by leaving some of the stickers on the puzzle. You can cut them with a stencil knife & steel ruler (a plastic square is good enough).
Start and end your cut a few millimetres into the sticker, then curve the ends, and peel. Cutting the sticker on the plastic scores the plastic underneath and you don't want a visible score line (It’s not best practice, but it will make things a bit simpler for a first mod). You can use a square edge to mark or cut (as in step 2), `careful with the sharp bit`, it’s safer to clamp it while you cut.
I then peeled the 4 stickers on the ends, completely off, and discarded them. You'll be removing 4 stickers entirely, cutting 8, and leaving 4 untouched.Step 2 Cutting:
Step 2 cutting.jpg [ 2.68 MiB | Viewed 1113 times ]
1. Masking tape to secure the shape.
2. Use a square edge to mark where you want to cut. You could do this to cut the stickers too.
3. A rag protects the surface when clamping. I used my dremel, but you could just use a hobby hacksaw.
You should cut a bit higher than your mark and that way you can file down to it. While you're learning what to do, give yourself a good 2-3mm. Also, cut along one flat surface at a time, not go through everything at once, this will keep your lines more accurate, because the blade will bend if you're cutting through 2 sides at once.
4. Then use the hobby hacksaw to cut the shafts that are holding the caps on. Break the inside shafts off with pliers.
6. Use a Flat Bastard file to take the plastic down to your marks.
Be accurate with your filing, the idea is not to file randomly, but to correct any mistakes you made with the cutting.. to get more accurate with every step and not to compound problems.
When you are getting close to your marks, you can cut the tape down the centre axis, then do an R2 twist and retape it, to put the opposite pairs together, to make sure that both sides are the same depth and compatible.
7. Clean the file as you go to remove debris.
8. Use a Mill file to smooth off the course marks from the Flat Bastard file. It needs to be fairly smooth because we're going to glue caps to the surface.
9. You can see the shape of the 222 Rhombic Prism, all surfaces are filed down and it’s ready to cap.
10. Here is the outline for the 222 Hex Barrel.Step 3 Capping:
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1. Trace a template. You can use Polystyrene Plastic Sheet for the caps, it’s available on ebay, but I had a bucket lid lying around with reasonably thick plastic and I didn’t want to wait. The slight flexibility will go away when it is glued in place with the support of the rest of the cubie.
2. Cut it a bit bigger and try to get the back edge straight.
3. You could use these too, or even strong scissors if you have some.
4. File the back edge flat (we’ll glue it on accurately because it’s hard to get to without disassembling the puzzle).
5. Give yourself an angle on the back edge, mill file only, you can use the stencil knife by scraping it along (not cutting with it) to remove any small dags, and then round it off smooth.
6. Make sure it fits.
7. Superglue it in place by gluing the entire way around the puzzle edge and then positioning the cap like this. I then cut right up close to the puzzle with strong scissors, and do the finish filing (at a slight angle so you don't destroy the stickers or surface of the sides.. as in pic 5. You might want to clamp it while you do that filing.
You can pick up on the finishing off after capping in future steps with the hex barrel.Where to Cut Hexagonal Surfaces:
where to cut hex.jpg [ 1 MiB | Viewed 1113 times ]
Step 4 Cutting Hexagon:
Step 4 cutting hexagon.jpg [ 736.73 KiB | Viewed 1113 times ]
1. I made my first marks quite conservative in case I came into the mechanism, or gaps. I worked my way in till I found a place where I was satisfied (I have power so it's not so laborious to sand), it works out at 25mm across for the hexagonal surfaces.
2. Using this measurement I cut the stickers as my guide to cut and file to.
3. The initial cut (remember to work in from both `side faces` to make the cutt straight, but also remember that the cut will be straight across in the end, forming a straight hexagonal side. DON’T CUT A V-shape into the mechanism!).
4. Leave a small gap when you do the initial cut so you can file to the stickers.
5. 1 side finished.. notice the centre is just starting to get a small hole.
6. Shows the off-cut in the second cut.
7. The filing marks from the Flat Bastard file on the almost completed surface.
8. Take the tape off and give a few twists to make sure all surfaces are compatible, then smooth it off with the Mill File. A 45* twist along the central axis will help secure the opposite sides of the puzzle, for filing in different positions without tape. Step 5 Fill:
Step 5 fill.jpg [ 1.51 MiB | Viewed 1113 times ]
I removed the cubies to make rounding off of edges easier.
1. Score the inside surfaces. I used the dremel to bore some holes.
2. Then I further scored it with the stencil knife.
3. Mix up some Milliput epoxy putty and make the flat surfaces, pushing it into the scoring.
4. Roll some out and apply it across the back to make a stronger structure.
5. File it all flat and `round the edge surfaces (except for the Milliput-only edge)`.
I work from Cutting > Flat Bastard File > Mill File > 400 wet&dry > 800 wet&dry > Car Scratch Remover Polish. Use wet&dry paper `wet`, with water as a lubricant on the surface of the paper, this prevents clogging the fine paper.
6. Cut caps with the same technique as for the 222 Rhombic Barrel.Step 6 Finishing:
Step 6 finishing.jpg [ 2.92 MiB | Viewed 1113 times ]
1. Glue the caps on with super glue.
2. Cut close to the cubies with sharp scissors.
3. File the edges to make curves consistent with the rest of the puzzle.
4. I made another final thin layer of milliput to cover some blemishes.. this could be done as part of the previous step (just be aware that you may not be able to disassemble it without great difficulty once the caps are glued on). This picture also demonstrates the 45* twist along the central axis to help secure the opposite sides of the puzzle, for filing in different positions without tape, mentioned above.
5. Use the scaling technique from `400 wet&dry to scratch remover polish` all over the puzzle.
6. Cut and apply stickers (It’s possible to have conserved a lot of them, but I’d advise your own stickers because they’ll look heaps better). I use Cubesmith sticker sheets: Standard 6 Colour Set, Purple, Light Green, Light Blue, Middle Grey, Pink, Cream, Black (so my colours are from that selection). Costs $18.00 total, and you have enough for up to a Dodecahedron with the MF8 colour scheme.